Goodwill Walk - Jesus Way

Goodbye

2010-03-29T23:42:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 30th (ignore time date above)
3 hours until I leave Jerusalem for the airport.
I was again well looked after by Bernadette and Elias (EnglishPAL friends)
I was invited to a special family Palm Sunday meal - unfortunately there was no way I could eat it so thought it better to not attend.It was just as well because I kept sleeping thru the day.
I was dropped in Bethlehem to go to the doctor.Unfortunately,they only treated Palestinians.The doctors were quite brusque but the patients recognised a fellow sufferer and directed me to another nearby.
Another man took me into a building led me to a waiting room and pointed inside.
I found myself sat with women and children.There were posters on the wall of pregnant women.My feeling of unease (mental- the physical was still very close)was relieved when I saw a man leave the doctors room- with wife and children.
My turn came, a helpful doctor prescribed some drugs.I repeatedly asked how much to pay and was only met with "have a nice day".
I met a friend who took me to a pharmacy amid much guffawing at my visit to the Obsetrician & Gynaecologist...
I managed to eat half a meal for the first time monday without ill effects.
I had the remnants for suffer.
After Mass at Notre Dame I felt tired and went to bed and slept 10 hours.
Last Day
I got up fairly early and went to Mass at the Holy Sepulchre.It was very cold standing there for well over an hour.
Although very hungry I am finding it hard to persuade myself to eat something.
I will probably settle for some bread - again.
Its Passover today and I've just heard a conversation about Nesher (the airport taxi service) being closed.Is my booking via hotel valid?On a normal day the regular taxi is 60 pounds...

Laid low

2010-03-27T03:18:00.000-07:00

It's been a good 48 hours since I started with a very dodgy stomach.36 laid in bed.Thankfully,the bathroom is only 1 metre from the end of the bed.
I've been hot,so cold my teeth chattering and all my bones aching.
In these parts the rehydration fluid is Sprite.
I have been well looked after by Khalil at HCEF.
Although,the rice dish he brought was great every grain went through me.
Elias and Bernadette from EnglishPAL are going to pick me up in less than an hour and take me to their house.
Thankfully,the frequency of my visits to the smallest room have decreased.
I just hope I'm OK by Tuesday afternoon when I fly...

House of Fun

2010-03-25T14:36:00.000-07:00

Spent a lot of Wednesday hanging about the Offices of a Reconcilliation organisation.
Quite moving some of the stuff I've heard.
Had dinner with an interesting couple who run a self help website.
Had some of Weds and all of Thursday with the children & Sisters at Children of God Home,Bethlehem.
It looks like after a couple of technical hitches the initial $600 will reach them.
Sat in the Chapel within the house you can hear the laughter of the children and occasionally their crying.The Sisters seem always to be laughing aswell.
They clearly love 'their' (my word)children.
I've heard some mind boggling stories of the number of handicapped children in this part of the world.The Bethlehem Children of God Home is going to have a booming trade for the next generation at least.
Happily i have spoken to a couple of young women that are not going to make a traditional 'choice' of husband.
Today is the Feast of the Annunciation - Patronal Feast for the Sisters.
A couple of carloads of children (Christians only),Sisters & volunteers headed for Mass.It was followed by a party at the House.I was the only native English speaker.
Apart from me EVERYONE spoke at least THREE languages.
I was woken at 5am today so now its Marsalama from me.

Stiff as a board

2010-03-23T12:59:00.000-07:00

The one eyed mangy cat rumaging thru a waste bin was the last sight of the hostel as
we went out for a 3 hour Tour of the Old City - which wasn't that good.
I learned next to nothing new.
In the afternoon Jan & Ana went to Masada and I caught the bus to Bethlehem.
(Got to say Jan was a great travelling companion - El Nazra to Al Quds.Good luck with the Medicine Degree - hope you get to Africa.Ana thanks for the company and your 'secret' is safe with us - Oh and keep smiling!)
Werner's contact in Bethlehem came good - thanks
I'm now ensconced in a Guest room above the Holyland Christian Ecumenical Foundation.
On being given a brief drive round Bethlehem I met Victor (Rony's Dad).I was soon dining with Rony & Carol.I did manage to get lost going the 400 yards back to HCEF
(I always say getting thru Towns/Villages is far harder than finding them in the first place).
My one and only pair of trousres have done sterling service for 3 weeks but are as stiff as a board so I have taken the risk of washing them and hoping they will be dry in the morning...

The Girls of St ...Joseph's.

2010-03-23T12:42:00.000-07:00

Monday 22nd
The three of us - Jan,Ana and myself went to Jericho to walk up Wadi Qelt.
We got up the Mount of Temptation whereupon we could get no answer at the door.
The girls of St Joseph School,Bethlehem were also visiting and tried a bit of singing to get Abouna to open the door - no luck.Jan had the girls swooning "great jump" as he climbed over a high fence to explore some lunatic idea of us going over a cliff edge - we didn't.
It turned out Georgette is a Volunteer at the Bethlehem Chidren of God Home that the money is being raised for.The girls and their teacher also know "Our Rony" Tabash.
We never did get up Wadi Qelt and returned to Jerusalem.
After catching up on a bit of sleep we met one of Ana's friends in West Jerusalem for an iffy Ethiopian meal.Later Belgium waffles were much better.
After a mad dash back to the Old City we ducked under the Midnight Portcullis.
We had insisted on a new room as we did not want a repeat performance at dawn.
Tired as I was I could not help noticing the bed linen was rather 'interesting'.
The Matrix coat doubled as a 'ground sheet'...yep it was that good.
But I slept.

No good turn goes unpunished...

2010-03-23T12:12:00.000-07:00

Sunday 21st
We eventually made it into Jerusalem and found a Hostel
It was chosen to suit my student companions budget...
The 'features' in this establishment probably coincide with most people's imagination back home.I delayed a shower to the last possible moment - not relishing the cold water.But was pleasantly surprised to find it warmish.At any rate warmish enough to dislodge half a toenail suitably 'cooked' over the last 3 weeks in my walking/only footwear.
As 'bus ticket' moments are burnt into my soul (Egypt Museum circa 1980)I was adequately prepared for all 'occassions' but I have to say I found crucial necessities were provided.
Altho absolutely knackered I had made a fatal mistake in the evening.
Upon treating my fellow traveller to the Austrian Hospice apple strudle I had a double expresso long.This made sleep elusive - then from the room next door came very loud snoring.I read outside the room for a while but it was too cold.
I must have drifted off about 3am- then beeb,beeb,beeb we frantically went thru our phones to switch the alarm off.finally realising it was the snorers next door.His alarm was set for 'dawn prayer'.He didn't turn it off!
Then on top of beeb,beeb was ring,ring,ring and he still didn't turn it off.
Forgetting all the rules of this land I went virtually naked and pounded on his door.
Not a sausage!!beeb,beeb and ring,ring for another aeon of time.Finally it stopped.
The bliss was interupted by the most horrific throat clearing imaginable...

EnglishPAL delivers the goods.

2010-03-23T01:03:00.000-07:00

Saturday
I found the exact spot where Habib had made us tea the year before.
Another very enjoyable day in the countryside.But we then paid the price with plenty of asphalt.
It was cool by the time we got to Ramallah.
We briefly met Shadi one of my englishpal contacts who assisted us to get to MK's place in Bir Zeit in the dark.
After shower and laundry we set of into Ramallah with MK's friend Anas.
We ended up talking well into the night - maybe 3am when we got to bed.
I have heard all sorts of ghastly stories of suffering in this HOLY LAND.
MK and particularly Anas conveyed their stories with passion but without rancour and a quiet dignity.This hit home harder than some other 'less quiet' ones.
I hope to meet the lads again...

Ana joins us

2010-03-23T00:51:00.000-07:00

Friday
This was the day I anticipated most difficulty and so it proved.
Once again I was finding places on the previous year's route.
The first part was a gentle and enjoyable stroll through a ravine.
The climb over rocky hills was much better this time - maybe because my load is so light.
However,the tracks ran out and we had to scramble up and down ravines - that was hard work.
We met a much travelled polyglot in Deir Jerir (apologies for mispelling)who gave us refreshments.
Jan thought he had found himself a 'liberal' man.The women's heads were uncovered but when he addressed a young woman she waved her finger and pointed to her father and conversation went thru him.A few hundred yards down the road and there were women on the street- by then it actually felt a little 'different'!!
In Taybeh we met Ana who had travelled from Galilee to join the walk.
Nothing to do so we told stories...
Jan & Ana tried to sleep on the roof.Jan returned to the room frozen around 3am

Hailstones

2010-03-23T00:44:00.000-07:00

Thursday
Habib was at Yasmeen bright and early to Guide us.It was good to see him again.
Again I remembered most of the Route.The most difficult bit is getting out of Towns & Villages on the right track.
There were showers and Hailstones at one point.
I think that is where I got my cold.
We took the day at a stroll.
Habib's wife put on a fine chicken and rice meal.
In the evening we visited Anwar who is was interesting to talk to.
He also likes the idea of bringing more people along the JESUSWAY.

Jacob's Well

2010-03-23T00:36:00.000-07:00

Wednesday
Along the route to Nablus we had long discussions with Nedal.
I remembered most of the Way.Jan made some notes.
On arrival at Nablus we visited the beautiful Jacob's Well Church -
the site if JESUS meeting the Samaritan woman.It took several seconds for water thrown down the Well to splash in the darkness.
We stayed at the Yasmeen Hotel in Nablus.
We then met Gabi who took us to Mass.
As it was in the Melkite Rite and Arabic it was quite different to home.
Gabi's family and friends gave us a fine meal and we enjoyed the whole evening.

Meeting Nedal again

2010-03-16T09:22:00.000-07:00

After another hearty breakfast we bade a fond farewell to our hosts.
We called on Father Frias to say goodbye.
We decided we wanted a more interesting walk so we avoided traveling on roads.
The entire day was spent in the countryside.Between my memory,the map and checking our position on the Israeli grid by GPS we managed not to get lost.Although,we were not on the exact route taken in 2009 when Guided we were close all day.It was tough going underfoot so we traveled slowly.There was much scrambling up and down hills.Quite a lot of time with no semblance of path.But it's all 'doable'
We had two stops to eat the masses of fruit we still have left...
It was good to meet Nedal again.We discussed the various walks in Spain, Galilee and the one we are on now.Then we heard a depressing resume of the current situation.

Zababdeh

2010-03-15T02:58:00.000-07:00

Fr Firas -who is an enthusiastic Melkite Priest -
has brought us to the Arab American University of Jenin (altho actually in Z)where Jan and I are making use of the Internet.
As we are both students of medicine & Islam respectively we are welcome...
It is like an oven in this room so I can't concentrate enough to do the Report I am part way thru for my lawyer friend from 'DC'.
Time for a walk round the Campus.
Back is holding up well.Exercise doing it good - as predicted by Doctor and Specialist.

Nearly 'killed' with Kindness

2010-03-15T02:39:00.000-07:00

Sunday 14th
A big breakfast.Our bags packed and full of fruit from the night before.
Then we were given a small rucksack full of sandwiches and more fruit EACH!!
We just didn't know what to do!In the end we declined the actual rucksacks and took most of the food.We just had to start eating it to lighten the load.
Jan kindly took most because I didn't want to risk aggravating my back.
Jan also put the Matrix coat on his bag as we crossed the border as it had attracted too much Security attention previously.
I carried some of Jan's water to equalise weight.
We were refused Crossing on foot.It took two minutes to hitch a ride.They still delayed us for about 15 minutes.Once across our driver and friend couldn't understand our insistence on walking.
We finally made ourselves understood with showing the Crucifix and saying
Meshi Haj Yalla Al Quds.
Which very roughly means Christian Walking Pilgrimage going to Jerusalem.
From then on we made slowish progress due to the insistence on "coming to drink coffee" (I never thought that could become a burden - but happily bourne)and farmers handing us oranges and tomatoes along the way.We had to eat them instantly to keep the load down.
It would be an absolute piece of cake hitch-hiking on the West Bank.
We had been recommended a visit to the 4th oldest Church in the world.
St George's Orthodox Church in Burqin - about 3 hours South West of Jalame Crossing.
Again everyone really friendly.
The morning was thru field's ,afternoon mainly on asphalt.
We have a good room and plentiful food here in Zababdeh.

Great Hospitality - Christians of Muqebli

2010-03-15T02:26:00.000-07:00

Saturday 13th.
After a nightmare world record snorer made me sleep in the lounge Jan and I walked the 25 km from Nazareth to Muqebli.A long hot day but carefully following our maps we were OK.Fr Marco met us at the Church.The Parishioners made us very welcome.We were greeted with handshakes by everyone and men and women were happy to talk to us.
I just managed to get thru Mass without falling asleep.Rarely have I been so tired.
Another rarity,Jan and I were a part of Fr Marco's sermon and got a round of applause.
We had good rooms & showers.Fr Marco and The Sisters were invited to dinner along with us.We couldn't eat all the food or drink all the tea,coffee,lemonade and wine.
We were given fruit for the journey next day.
Fr Marco would not take a penny - so another donation the BCGH.

A stroll around El Nazra

2010-03-12T11:17:00.000-08:00

After a 'cut throat' razor shave had a pleasant stroll around El Nazra.
Managed to buy a new shirt.Coffee with old friend Martina at Cactus House.
My idyll of a five bed room to myself at 'mates rates' has come to a shuddering halt with two aussie couples.I have explained the house rule of no snoring.
Contacts have come good and got next 3 nights accommodation sorted for my soon to be travelling companion Jan and I.
Shukran to Sister Muna (Jenin)and Tamer (Cana).
After tomorrow's 25km walk on asphalt and potentially the next day 18km on asphalt we may have got the following 2 days Guided thru the countryside.
Now awaiting the Volunteers at Fauzi to be ready - they are taking me to smoke sheesha from 10pm onwards.I'm told I'm 'half a volunteer'.
I forsee getting going tomorrow being horrific.
In the midst of all this I am trying to write a report for a Washington lawyer.
The delay is my 'techno numptiness'.

Long hot day

2010-03-11T12:09:00.000-08:00

Good breakfast at the Green Goat.Attentive hosts.GG will be a good place to stay.
The Trail markers vanished about an hour out of llania.It took ages to find my way - good job I had a good map (in hebrew).
My GPS converted to the Israeli Grid is great for pinpointing my location.
Also the Co Founder of Jesus Trail has programmed it with various trail co-ordinates.
No surprise to any one I can't understand a damn thing.Might aswell be greek.
In Cana had to wait an hour for the Latin Church to open during lunch.
I did meet Tamer - thanks for information about Muqebli.
(I have telephoned your friend and he has given me the name of the Priest to get accommodation)
On arriving in Nazareth I asked Francis for directions -(thanks to you and your family for inviting me for a meal).
On arriving at Fauzi (thanks to Nukshi for the Tish Dish)
Apologies to all the above for my 'sulphuric' shirt.Sort of eau de vagrant...
I will buy another tomorrow.

The Green Goat & the Vicaress & me smelling like a goat

2010-03-10T13:02:00.000-08:00

Arrived Green Goat,llania at about 4pm.
It is an Eco Farm.They make cheese from 14 goats.
Had stopped at Nebi Shueib ( I think the Tomb of Jethro - Moses' father in law).
Drank from the spring that Salah uh Din blocked to induce thirst in the Crusaders.
Had lunch with Druze gentlemen.English was thin but ginger candy was plentiful.
Then long climb to Horns of Hittim the sight of the defeat of the Thirsting Crusaders
Long hot walk through Galilee countryside.
Sally was the only other guest.
I had a shower and realised my second shirt had fallen off the back of my coat - so had to put the same one back on...
The evening ended with tea and buns with the Vicaress.

Still an Angel

2010-03-10T12:54:00.000-08:00

It was a close run thing but I think Shavitz Guest House just 'outpoints' HooHa (Mount Tabor) to be Best Breakfast West of Saigon.
A marvellous selection washed down by a 1 and half litre pitcher of mint tea.40nis.
Sarah in her Angelic way donated the cost of bed, 100 shekels to the Children in Bethlehem - Thankyou.
Met Werner & Marleen and had what I hope will be a most significant conversation....
So I didn't get started until 1015 hrs

First Day Walking - Tuesday 9th March

2010-03-10T12:43:00.000-08:00

0545 hrs up.On Tiberius bus 0645.Grabbed some bread and nuts and got taxi to Capernaum.After visiting the Church and having breakfast set off 0845.
Managed to waste 1 hour going on wrong path more or less as I did last year.
When it came to the business end of the day I walked up the valley - Wadi Haman rather than try the cliffs.I drank 5 lires of water en-route.
Walking minus getting lost and lunch stop about 4 and half hours.Arrived 3pm.
As last year Israel & Sarah were great hosts.
I was provided with a 1 and half litre pitcher of fresh lemonade - and drank the lot.
As I was wringing wet a plunge into their pool was great.
Dined with a young American - yet another Christain volunteer.She is teaching English to Palestinian children.Great lamb casserole - a snip at 20 pounds...

Kiss of Peace and Bible class...

2010-03-08T07:30:00.000-08:00

A nice surprise - breakfast provided at Fauzi Azar Inn.
Fond greeting from Sureida - as lovely as ever.
Took the Old City Tour with one of the Volunteer Guides at FAI.
Interesting as they have 'discovered' some places they didn't show me last time.
Afterward acted as 'amateur' Guide to Doc,Jim & Michelle from America.
Fruit and vege lunch.
Fell asleep reading.
Just resigned myself to food from the supermarket when 3 of the Volunteer girls rang me to go to Bible class with them.Giving up a meal was not a good thought.
I went and was rewarded by a meal! and meeting an impressive bunch of young people.
They are all volunteering in one capacity or another in and around Nazareth.
Best of all a girl who wants to walk from Galilee to Jerusalem.
Even though our dates don't coincide I think I have found a 'doer' rather than a 'sayer'?

Code HR

2010-03-07T08:27:00.000-08:00

Late evening at an undisclosed location myself and some Germans shared part of our Saxon heritage...no more can be said...
So much noise in the Guesthouse I retired to the roof.
The 'Matrix coat' once more attracted Security attention at Jalame Crossing into Israel.I was airport style scanned twice,searched 3 times and bag x-rayed twice.
All the while locals going back & forth.It took nearly an hour.
Once across another hour waiting for a Service Taxi - someone took pity & gave me a lift to Afula.Uneventful bus ride to Nazareth and a re-union with Maoz around 2pm Sunday.Still the great relaxed friendly atmosphere at Fauzi Azar.
Volunteer staff falling over themselves to be helpful - conjuring up food.
Managed to go to Mass in the Basilica at the wrong time.

A Day in Jenin

2010-03-06T11:03:00.000-08:00

I was accompanied by Tamin's nephew to Jenin.Bag dropped at Cinema Guest House.
Thanks go to Sister Muna at Latin Church for struggling thru her third language - hopefully sorting me some accommodation once the Walk starts when I return to Jalame Crossing.
Once again many thanks to EnglishPAL for another contact which has come good.
A day spent in coffee houses,smoking shisha (not bad!),playing cards and enjoying street cuisine.
The lads took me by taxi to the "3rd or 4th oldest Church in the Holy Land" in Berqin (0224692/0707072)about 5km West of Jenin where Jesus cured the ten lepers.
Particular thanks to Nafe,Khalid & Mohammed.

Wedding Party

2010-03-05T13:01:00.000-08:00

Dinner was excellent. Tamin and I went for a walk thru the village.We joined a Wedding Celebration with virtually all the men of the village dancing.It was reminiscent of my cousins Lebenese style wedding in Paris. We met Firas,Raed and Mohammed.Many people I meet speak very good English.

A Day Volunteering

2010-03-05T09:23:00.001-08:00

Shadi was one of the organisers of 50 young people from Ramallah -including about half a dozen Internationals.We went to the village of Qarawat Bani Hassan which is in danger from nearby Settlers.I am told they claim 'unused' land.Apparently,first using a bulldozer to fill in a fresh water spring,destroy a road and olive grove walls.So the volunteers using one wheelbarrow,one sledge hammer and their bare hands repaired the road and walls to thwart a 'legal' attempt to take over the land.
Due to my bad back I carried paper cups and took photo's.
Afterwards I was dropped off at Zatara checkpoint where a helpful Israeli soldier got me a Service Taxi to Nablus.
While waiting for the next taxi from Nablus to Jenin I met Tamin.
En-route he invited me to stay with his family in Silat adh Dhahr - 40 km SW of Jenin.
Nicely showered I await dinner...

Arrived in the Holy Land

2010-03-04T08:30:00.000-08:00

Flights all went well.Interviewed by Security at Tel Aviv.After concluding I was a harmless lunatic they let me go.
Long wait for Service Taxi.Arrived Petra Hostel,Old City,Jerusalem 3.30am.
Big mistake - no sleep due to road works right outside(also got no 'hair straighteners',Matthew)
After visiting the Holy Sepulchre went for coffee.Taken to SIM card shop and sorted.
I've had contacts already.Bumped into Ibrahim from Mt of Olives.
Took Service Taxi to Ramallah after receiving call from Shadi i met thru EnglishPAL ( a great organisation).
He has invited me to join some Volunteers on Community work near Nablus (City of Matyrs!-so they tell me).
Looks like I'm ahead of schedule.

GPS is not compatible with Isareli Map Grid

2010-03-02T09:49:00.000-08:00

So my Etrex GPS has had to be re-configured with the following data:-

Grid format long. of Origin old 35 degrees 12.724 E, new 35 degrees 12.724 E
False Easting old 170251m , new 220251
Scale old 1.0 , new 1.0000067
False Northing old -2385259m , new -2885259m
dx old -235m , new -235m
dy old -85m , new -85m
dz old 264m , new 264m
da old -164 , new -164
df old -0.5473908 , new -0.5473908

Charity Dinner - £359/$575 raised

2010-02-08T08:59:00.000-08:00

On 4th February 44 people dined at Balti House,Keighley,West Yorkshire.
Thanks go to Balti House for allowing half the costs to go to the Bethlehem Children of God Home(via Keighley Inter Faith Group).
Thanks also go to the Chairman of Keighley Inter faith Group - Peter Mott - for all his hard work organising.
The group included Christians,Muslims and a Hindu.
Some Holy Family & Greenhead Schools 6th formers attended.
A diner not in our group on hearing what it was all for promptly donated £20!
Paul Sullivan 'modelled' a garment donated by Snugpak (Silsden) and customized by Sew Right (Church St,Keighley).The garment was variously described as a Matrix coat,poachers coat and Clint Eastwood coat.
Paul will wear it on Goodwill Walk through the Holy Land in March 2010.

Aims of 2010 Goodwill Walk thru Holy Land

2010-01-28T06:26:00.000-08:00

To raise sponsorship money for the Bethlehem Children of God Home.
They take in mentally & physically handicapped children from Muslim and Christian families who are unable to care for them.
There are currently 14 places in BCGH.We are hoping to assist in an expansion to 50 places.
On a day to day level it costs $17 (£11) for one hours physiotherapy for a child.
To obtain a sponsorship form go to www.goodwillwalk.com and download from 'About future walks' page.
Please make cheques to 'Keighley Inter Faith Group'the money will then be given to BCGH.(Keighley is one of the largest Towns in West Yorkshire,UK.A major contribution to Keighley is made by it's large muslim population.)
Another aim of the Goodwill Walk is to make contacts to build a route for Independent Travellersfrom the Galilee,Israel through the Palestinian Territories to Jerusalm & Bethlehem.
Major work has been done incorporating the 'Jesus Trail' in Galilee into the National Israeli Trails.Also the Alternative Tour Group (based in Bethlehem) have pioneered the Nativity Trail - Nazareth to Bethlehem.
Building contacts giving local Guides' details & accommodation would encourage Independent Travellers to come visit the people of the Holy Land and put money into the local economy.

The Accidental Donor

2009-12-16T14:29:00.000-08:00

Graham became an accidental donor tonight when he bumped into my car causing very slight damage.He insisted on paying some money.So we agreed to donate his £30 to the Bethlehem Children's Home.

Siamese Twins - Paul

2009-04-03T09:52:00.000-07:00

Those of entrenched opinions will not have changed their 'sides' after reading the blogs.Many Israelis & Palestinians have the blame 100% on the 'other' side.There is a lot of opinion from local & 'internationals'(who back one side or the other)that is unwilling to give an inch because their side is 'Right'.
My first hand experience of Palestinians & Israelis over 3 decades is one of genuine warmth.Most do not see a way forward any time soon.
I hope I am proved wrong on the above.

What is absolutely clear to me, Peace for Israel and Justice for Palestinans are Siamese Twins.Both will 'exist' rather than 'live' unless they give up some of their 'Rightness'.

The Holy Land is beautiful & fascinating.I find it endlessly compelling.To walk through a large part of it is a privilege.I cannot wait to get back.
Easter Holidays 2010?
Karen,Fiona,Matthew,Sophia,Myron,Maureen,Gaye & Red Dave,thanks for the texts etc.

Rockets

2009-04-03T09:42:00.000-07:00

At the Shroud of Turin Exhibition we met an overseas family staying at Ashdod about 20 miles from Gaza.Jim is working their for 2 years.He told us in detail of living under the Rockets from Gaza.Air Raid warnings.Bomb shelters.Stepping out of the Shelter too soon & seeing/hearing a Rocket land frighteningly close.He was seriously considering cancelling his contarct when Hamas declared a 'cease fire'.He has since found out that this does not involve ceasing to fire rockets!
We have heard much about the 'Apartheid' Wall,land grab & harrassment of Palestinians.We were told the Wall has nothing to do with a (Israeli claimed) 90% drop in suicide bombings.Jim brought a whole new dimension to our information.Namely,a 'Security Wall'.

Shroud - the Wow Factor

2009-04-03T09:30:00.000-07:00

We got to Jerusalem early afternoon Wednesday so had about 24 hours in the Holy City.
Paul,Thomas & James tried to visit the Temple Mount and Dopme of the Rock.The route for tourists was closed.Only the muslim gate was available - but not to us....
Paul researched accommodation for future visits.James & Thomas wandered.
On our last evening we visited Notre Dame where there is a permanent Shroud of Turin exhibition.The Shroud is the most scientifically examined object in history.The avalanche of evidence must make agnostics,atheists etc want to weep.
James & Thomas would never have visited the exhibition on their own.They were both 'wowed'.
Fr Eamon Kelly who hosted the exhibition for us gave a humorous,entertaining & information packed evening.

West Yorkshire Olive Tree-the Patsy Tree of Love

2009-04-03T09:24:00.000-07:00

Rony took us to meet Daoud who is a green fingered Palestinian who has created a beautiful garden over 30 years.Patsy,Paul & Daoud planted a Olive Tree as a symbol of peace & friendship between the people of West Yorkshire and the Holy Land.Daoud told us our tree will give a good crop of Olives in 3 years.
We concluded our visit to Bethlehem by taking a look at and passing through the Wall.
Not a happy sight!

Tabash Family - Bethlehem

2009-04-03T09:02:00.000-07:00

On Tuesday we visited Bethlehem and met the Tabash Family - a contact from Aid to the Church in Need.
Victor,Epiphanius,Rony & Carol (apologies for any mis-spellings)were gracious hosts.
We expected to visit a few of the Olive wood workers who benefit from their link with ACN.However,we had so much more.We were given an insight into the way ACN & the Tabash family really help 48 local families in extreme financial difficulties.
Although,Christians they make sure Muslim families benefit from the the ACN link - providing them with work.It would be financially more viable for the Tabash family to set up their own woodwork factory,drive costs down & output up but this would be catastrophic for the 48 families.
It was good to see that business & social responsibility towards all the community is at the heart of what ACN & the Tabash family do in Bethlehem.
Rony spent most time with us taking us to many places we would never have seen.He spoke of the general good relations between the large muslim community & the Christians.
We also visited an orphanage for handicapped children where Rony volunteers.Our impromptu visit revealed a place of love for happy children cared for by Christian Sisters.
On Wednesday Carol re-arranged her working day (two jobs on the Jerusalem side of the Wall) just to meet us.

A Legend- Ibrahim El Hawa

2009-03-30T09:29:00.000-07:00

Ibrahim has kept an open house for decades.He has just given us a great meal.We are overlooking the Dead Sea from the Mount of Olives.Ibrahim travelled all over the world (without a passport)spreading his message of Peace.He has been taken advantage of by 'Born Again' (his words)types running up his phone bills etc.

Visiting Friends

2009-03-30T09:20:00.000-07:00

The Visitation of (Mary to Elizabeth)took place at Ein Karem.Paul met Rory Greeba who are volunteering there.John the Baptist grew up there.A beautiful place.Patsy,Thomas and James met Toni in Yad Vashem.We had dinner with her friend in a mediocre overpriced West Jerusalem 'Fish Restaurant'.
Patsy saw the Doctor.Thomas went walkabout partially filmed a boycott Israel demo.
James spent hours in On the Seam museum.Paul briefly went round then visited David & Althea at the peaceful Garden Tomb.

Patsy in The Holy Sepulchre

2009-03-30T09:02:00.000-07:00

Patsy entered The Old City of Jerusalem & felt a sense of fulfillment & achievement.The next day - Sunday - Patsy & Paul went to the Holy Sepulchre.The Bishop concelebrated High Mass with several Priests.The Mass was sung in Latin & Arabic.Patsy was moved by the joyous occassion.They managed to sing along with the aid of hymn sheets.About 4 times they were drowned out by one of the Eastern Rite priests.Patsy felt it was fantastic to be part of an Internatinal group.
Thomas,Patsy & James went to Yad Vashem -the Holocaust Museum.

Great Julie

2009-03-28T11:54:00.000-07:00

Happy Birthday,
Paul xxxx

Jerusalem

2009-03-28T11:48:00.000-07:00

we negotiated the airport style the checkpoint at the edge of Ramallah.Thomas said he felt like a "rat in a trap".We had numerous Settlements pointed out to us on the way into the City.The entire way on asphalt was hard on the legs.
The Capitol Hotel is a better standard than on the rest of our travels.
Paul is at the nearby St Georges complex.It's one of the few places in East Jerusalem that sells beer!Apart from Patsy we all visited the Holy Sepulchre.New to Thomas - "Museum".He said that before he saw part of 3 Liturgies...
Trying to sort out a visit to Ein Karem to see Rory & Greeba tomorrow

Farce

2009-03-28T11:39:00.000-07:00

The walk to Ramallah was mainly on roads & uneventful until we got to the main checkpoint.By then we were 3 Pilgrims & two Palestinian Guides.Initially,we were all stopped & told no-one thru on foot.One of our group thought a soldier directed us to walk around the checkpoint thru a field.We did - all of us- & began walking up the road.A humvee & 4 soldiers soon approached.After about 20 mins negotiation & calls to their Officer the soldiers let the 3 Pilgrims thru but not our Guides.By an unprintable arrangement a car delivered the two Palestinians to us only 400 metres from the checkpoint!The Security aspect of the Wall is at the very least in part a farce.
We were shown round the Birzet district of Ramallah by the engaging Raydeh.Their Church in common with many we have seen was beautiful.We slept in a very cold 'community' hostel with very basic facilities (in daylight it was warmer outside!)

Ephraim / Taybeh / Salah-ad-din

2009-03-28T10:12:00.000-07:00

Toughest day from Doma to Taybeh.James was taken to hospital by George for his Rabies injection.Habib took him past the Bedouins wild dogs.James was understandably wary.It was after he left the terrain got worse & worse.Rocky hill after rocky ravine after rocky hill.Its not so much the height as the concentration & difficulty of finding a decent foot grip.Eventually,it became too much for Patsy whose left leg ghave in.We had to arrange transport to our destination.
We found James at Al Mugharayir in a barber shop with half the male population of the village (females are seen to & from shops only).They insisted we all have a cup of coffee.The legendary Palestinian hospitality is absolutely true.In general you would struggle to find a nicer bunch of people.
We reached Taybeh & it is the most beautiful village we have seen in the Holy Land.
We had a very interesting Guided Tour from Keries & Nader.
Taybeh is Ephraim visited by the Lord after He had raised Lazarus & before he entered Jerusalem.All the surrounding villages were Christian until Sala-ad-din & his Army arrived.As resistance brought a swift & final solution conversion or payment of a 'religious' Tax were the options all the other Christian villages were too poor to pay so became muslims.Ephraim people slaughtered their sheep & made a feast for the troops ,welcomed Salah-ad-din & billetted his troops.So he allowed them to retain their Ancient Faith & gave them the name "good people" ie Taybeh.The people have retained Christanity through conquest by Marmaluke,Turk,in the mandate & Israeli rule.

Tom & Jerry

2009-03-25T11:26:00.000-07:00

Walked 8 hours including rest stops from Nablus.Staying at the Guides house.Habib provided us with a hearty chicken meal with two kinds of broth we have not had before.It was very good.The first meal without humous on the table (usually 3 times a day!)At his friends house on computer - being fed a fruit similar to grapefruit but not the same.We have been treated very well everywhere we have been.Everyone is very friendly.They laugh when I tell them you all think we will get shot or blown up.
Israelis & Palestinians think the media is against them.Most of the Palestinians we meet are very politicised.Several of the homes have photos of Shahid's (Martyr's).My computer host tells me as I write how the problem between I & P is like Tom & Jerry - it will never end...

Health Bulletin

2009-03-24T23:19:00.000-07:00

08:20 hrs 25th March.James injections seem to have prevented the onset of Rabies.Patsy fighting fit - slow but sure.Thomas has blisters but they seem better after Turkish Bath.He has put gaffer tape over them.Paul has only one blister but a streaming cold has developed into a chesty cough.Joints still OK

Hailstones

2009-03-24T23:10:00.000-07:00

Walking from Al Fara we expected rain as the previous night was a violent storm.
Before we were half way the rain had turned to hail.Fortunately,it was showers rather than a sustained downpour.We passed Jabel al Kabeer on top of which is an Israeli settlement.It was very very windy as we walked for a couple of hours passing opposite the Jebel.The countryside is very hilly & in parts spectacualr.Most of it is beautiful.We reached Nablus & visited a place called Joseph's Tomb (he with the coat of many colours) it was a place of squalor.An apparent scene of conflict between Israeli Settler;s & local Palestinian's.We had a Tour of Old Nablus & on many street corners saw pictures of "Martyr's" killed in clashes with Israeli soldiers.
We then had a good sauna & massage at the famous Turkish Bath house.
Eventually getting to Asia Hotel were we had a spicy chicken meal.

The Wall

2009-03-24T22:38:00.000-07:00

We arrived at the Jalama Crossing to be told no foreigners after 12 noon.We drove the 50 km in a taxi to the next point & were just nodded thru by a soldier.We arrived in the evening in Haddadland a theme park after changing taxis inside the West Bank.George of Siraj Centre gave us a comprehensive view of the political situation.We had a good meal as we discussed.We drove to Faqua & begun the walk.Very hilly,many places uneven under foot.Making slow going for some.We arrived at Zebabdeh & went into the Church of Visitation.We found our accommodation in an Agricultural Centre & had a modest evening meal follwed by sleep & breakfast.

Husam,family & Khaled

2009-03-24T22:35:00.000-07:00

We left Gazit & walked across the fields to Taibi.The little children greated us with Shaloms.An rab Town they thought we were Israelis.Husam gave us coffee & we met his friend Khaled.We found our Taxi

Kibbutz Gazit

2009-03-24T22:34:00.000-07:00

It was a great momentfor Paul to see his old Volunteer Leader again.The group were introduced & Thomas interviewed him on film.

HooHa best breakfast West of Saigon

2009-03-24T22:32:00.000-07:00

Several year's ago Paul had a sumptuos breakfast in a Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City.Hooha's was the best since then.So good he did not relise it was vegetarian until near the end.

Route- Israeli Map 1:50,000 essential

2009-03-22T12:03:00.000-07:00

Apologies in advance for mis-spellings etc
Faqua 09:30 hours Sunday 22nd March 09
From Mosqe at East of Town take road downhill going South.After 200m go uphill T(urn) R(ight).see Jenin to West.Take R direction of Dav Haduff (Monastery Town)pass plastic Greenhouse on L(eft) & T R & immediate L between Olive Grove & small green plants to road (brown & white on Map)T L then R at Aus Aid & 3 Flags onto asphalt road for 50m then left at first pylon walk down hill between crops in fields.
Go R side of Olive Trees then thru middle on tractor tracks.(10:45 hr) then snake L then R to bottom of valley.L onto dirt road for 50m.(on map 1868\2068).T R climb upthru Olive Trees no path keep brown walled cultivation area on your R/climb keep cactus grove on your R.climb to Well then faint path at 45 degree angle upwards on L.
Straight up thru rocks & trees.At flatish top walk thru Olive grove (11:45hr)towards small hill until faint tractor track to very top T L onto clear dirt road for few hundred m.T R.when path becomes faint don't go straight but T R after 100m sweeps R downhill leaving path T L go down shallow valley after 20m path re starts.Long way down thru Olive trees.All way to forest & thru to West side of Al Mughiyyir.At asphalt road T L for 150m then R tractor tracks downvalley to fork go R down another valley.T junction of valleys T R for few hundred m then L upanother valley.All way up to a 3 way split take R valley bend R along flat valley with green almonds & wall along middle.rise slowly veering R & up above cultivated Olive groves along grassed (spring only?)tractor track.At end of Olive Groves T R uphill.At topT L at 6ft high stones (Olive grove in front-small hill behind them)Keep Olives on R aftewr100m cross impacted dirt road walk thruOlive Trees (Talfit on R)At end T R on dirt road with cultivated plain on L for few hundred m until asphalt road.Walk about 1km to Zebabdeh.

Mount Tabor

2009-03-20T13:19:00.000-07:00

Met David Landis - co-founder of Jesus Trail- & his friend Anna at Fauzi Azar Inn for breakfast.They are doing great work promoting the Jesus Trail with the Israeli Authorities.
David's advice on a route out of Nazareth on the way to Mt Tabor was invaluable.
Again we set off later than anticipated but we made good time to the foot of the mountain.It was a hard slog up the mountain from Dubbaraya (apologies for spelling)laden with water & food.1 hour 25 minutes - 2 hr 5 minutes was the Groups time.
The Jesus prayer every inch of the way ensured all four of us got to the Monastery (reputed to be the most beautiful in the Holy Land )at the top before it closed.
We had problems in the dark on the way down again.At least it was not life threatening.
All Paul's joints OK.Patsy battling on well.James dogbite doesn't seem to be causing any problems & Thomas is heroically carrying all his excess camera gear.

We are now at the unlikely named HooHa Cyclists House in Kfar Tavor.A strikingly futuristic looking place.We thought we had the place to ourselves.Paul was ready for shower/jacuzzi when a couple wandered into the lounge area.
The guy wore a look that said "member of the trans world......."
As it was pre shower it must have been an 'olfactory experience' for them both!
The Man on a Donkey - BBC journalist Aleem Maqbool has now contacted us...

(Terrific Draw! - Matthew,Myron & Red Dave - thanks for letting me know)

The Basilica of The Annunciation

2009-03-19T13:19:00.000-07:00

At 6pm Thursday 18th we all went to Mass for the Feast of St Joseph.The celebration was in Arabic & Latin with a touch of Greek.The chief celebrant was the Bishop.The place was packed.After Mass the Bishop & people processed with the Icon of St Joseph to the Grotto of Annunciation.Veneration took place.Patsy & Paul were right at home.James & Thomas.....
We spent a good while looking at the contributions of many countries to the outside fo the Basilica - mosaics of Mother & Child
We still have not got accommodation for tomorrow on Mouint Tabor.We think we have sorted out James' rabies injections for 22nd & 26th when we are in the heart of the Palestinian Territories.
We have been received well by everyone.With enthusiasm by most people.
We are now in the Fauzi Azar Inn.This really is a lovely place.The 5* pina colada brigade would not give it a second glance & if they did they would not appreciate it.The four of us are in the same room Paul was 2 years ago.
Thomas is conducting a series of interviews for The Film - must go.

The 'Angel' Sara - Arbel Guest House

2009-03-19T13:02:00.000-07:00

Sara & Israel welcomed us to their lovely Guesthouse.Although,shattered we somehow kept talking about our experiences & backgrounds until about 1am.
James was taken to the Doctor by Sara.She spent the larger part of her day looking after James.When they returned from his Rabies injections (several hundred shekels poorer) we set of walking.At 2pm we headed for the Horns of Hittim.A rugged but beautiful walk.Nearby was the site where the Soldiers of the 3rd Crusade were trapped & dying of thirst when they faced Saladdin's Army & were defeated.
We had a phone number for accommodation in Cana.It turned out to be very difficult to get sorted out.We stayed 10 yards from The Wedding Church of Cana.The place was good but ridiculously expensive.
We had a modest breakfast thrown in.As we went into the Church we saw a Bride walking into her wedding - stunning (nearly as beautiful as a certain 'little person'.
We could not get into the Greek Orthodox Church as they were cleaning.
The walk from Cana to Nazareth was uneventful & boring as it was road all the way.
We arrived at the Greco-Roman Bath House to be greeted warmly by Elias & Martina.
Patsy,Thoams & James were as impressed as Paul had been a couple of years ago.
Thomas interviewed Martina.Paul 'guided' Patsy & James round Nazareth.Patsy made a donation (in dollars)& prayed in the White Mosque on behalf of her neighbours in Highfield,Keighley.

'Rabies' in the Ravine

2009-03-19T12:31:00.000-07:00

At Ibillin we met Michel Chacour,nephew of Archbishop Elias Chacour.He gave us a tour of the nearly completed Church.We went around the schools.There are 75% muslim students. The rest Christian,they also have Jewish students studying extra curricula subjects.The head teacher of one school is muslim.They have Jewish,Christian,Muslim & Druze teachers.
We drove from Ibillin to Tiberius & stayed at the very basic Aviv Hostel.Althopugh,4 beds crammed into a small room we managed to leave a 12" gap between the men's 'triple bed' & patsy's single.I won't say who snored enough for Paul to bring out the earplugs...Machael had suggested we find the Melkite Catholic Church in Tiberius Old City.We met Nami who looks after the Church - we wished we had booked accommodation there.We did go back for breakfast.We got a Taxi to Capernaum on morning of Tuesday 17th.
We visited Capernaum Church & synagogue.Prayed together on camera ( a new experience).
About half an hour's walk away is the Church of Beatitudes.We got there just as they were closing for lunch.We then walked to the nearby Churches of Peter's Primacy and Loaves & Fishes.All different styles.
We then followed the Jesu Trail - backwards,This has proved challenging to say the least.After 15 minutes we missed a left turning & lost maybe 45 minutes.We more or less had to walk near to the road to Migdal Junction - several miles.Then the fun really began.As we entered the ravine between the mountains a dog bit James.We were running out of daylight but thought we had time to climb up & over the cliff.
Thomas was struggling with pack,camera,tripod & equipment.We ran out of daylight!We dedcided that as we had come so far we wouldn't be beaten.It's quite amazing just how much you can see on a 3' wide ledge even in darkness.I eventually found my headtorch.We walked along the ledge - slowly & found the way over the top.It was a series of Vertical (no exaggeration) small metal handholes.It looked like suicide for a monkey without baggage in daylight!We decided to go back to the beginning of the ledge.Then the group decided to go the longer 'easier' route.Judging by our efforts thus far we calculated 2 hours round the rim of the cliff & smaller climb.As we edged along the ledge facing the Sea of Galilee the ledge narrowed.We cornered to face the Sea & the wind blew.We dreaded the thought of rain - slippy!Thomas scrammbled about 20 metres straight up scree with only a 4'ledge to stop a 1000' drop.Thomas vanished out of sight,we could only see the torch as we waited in darkness.On his return Co-ordinator's veto 'vote'took us slowly down the Mountain.We had been on the Mopuntain in the dark for about 4 hours...
We secured transport to Arbel Guesthouse.

Holy Land

2009-03-15T15:35:00.000-07:00

00:40 hrs local time,16-3-9.so this will be brief.
Went to wrong terminal at Manchester Airport.Took off on time.Got Rental car,nicely fit all four of us & luggage.James more efficient but not as good looking as my regular navigator.Got to Haifa 50 mileish from Airport no probs.Got lost trying to find Arab village of Ibillin.In middle of nowhere our first Guardian Angel appeared & had us follow him in his car.When we eventually took a wrong turning & got to Ibillin West we found Angel 2 - Husam (apologies for spelling).He drove all the way to Mar Elias schools.A great guy name Ammar has fed us given us tea & rooms.James,Patsy & Thomas are knocking zeds out.
Need to find ear plugs in case those zeds are too loud!

Thanks

2009-03-13T14:05:00.000-07:00

Before we start on our new journey a few Thankyou's are in order.
First Karen for putting up with what to most people are my crazy ideas.
The steadfast support of my family.
Tony's IT skills for the last 3 years - he's now passing the baton to Howard at Local Life in Bingley.The proprietor's & staff at Speakes in Keighley Outdoor store for their knowledge,advice & discount.Matthew & Chris' endeavours to get this blog sorted.Liz,Steve,Chris & Amplitude with maps.John for Health & Safety advice.
A special thankyou to Heather who having paid a substantial deposit had to pull out and insisted on Goodwill Walk keeping the money.(H,I'll tell you later what I have done with it.)Dawn for First Aid advice.Fiona for past & future blog inputs.Neil for Map Reading training.Mirhan at Keighley News for his articles.
Repeated donations from the Parishioners of St Joseph's,Airedale.
Mum & Dad's 'prayer team'.
The Angels who appeared from nowhere on the Way of St James & those we have yet to meet on the Jesus Way.

Goodwill Walk explained

2009-03-13T04:38:00.000-07:00

The idea of Goodwill Walk is to bring people of different backgrounds together by the simple means of walking together. The name ‘Goodwill’ was chosen because this is what is needed for people of different backgrounds to get along together.If you look at www.jesustrail.com, www.abrahampath.org, and www.unoac.org you will see other people are already working on the same idea.
My motives are exactly as they describe.

The route Goodwill Walk-Jesus Way links the Jesus Trail (pioneered by Maoz Inon, David Landis, Matthew Cooper & Nathaniel Herr) which runs from Nazareth to Capernaum with the Nativity Trail replicating Mary & Joseph’s journey to Bethlehem.
In 2000 the Alternative Tour Group re-started this route travelling via Jericho.
In December 2008 BBC journalist Aleem Maqbool walked with a donkey on the Nativity Trail. However, he walked due south through Ramallah & Jerusalem to Bethlehem.

The Goodwill Walk through the Holy Land – 2009 will start from Capernaum next to the Sea of Galilee up to Nazareth. Then we will follow a route similar to Aleem Maqbool. Our walk ends in Jerusalem. For me our Route it is The Passion Trail – similar to The LORD’S journey to His Passion & Resurrection.

I use the word ‘Way’ as this describes many Pilgrimage Routes in Spain eg Way of St James.My reasoning is the several ‘Trails’ can be linked to become a larger ‘Way’. I hope the economic benefits – new hostels, hotels, restaurants, café’s etc- walkers bring to N Spain can be brought to the people of the Holy Land.

Walk from Galilee to Jerusalem,2009

2008-09-07T14:15:00.000-07:00

The Charity (ACN)I channel money thru sent a donation to Mar Elias Schools last year.
ME tries to foster greater understanding between the 3 Abrahamic Faiths.Places in ME Educational Institute in Galilee are open to students of all backgrounds.

The founder Elias Chacour was the local Priest,he is now an Archbishop in a large part of the northern Holy Land.I was very grateful to receive a letter recently.He thanked donors and said "Your idea of walking from Galilee to Jerusalem is a great one...We heartily support your initiative and would very much like to keep in touch".

My intention is to try and 'visit with the people' not so much to see Churches & other buildings.I have seen the massive economic benefits walking pilgrims bring to Northern Spain on the Way of St James.More & more hotels & restaurants are being built all the time.The Walks' popularity has only occurred in the 1980's.
Many,probably most 'pilgrims' on the Way of St James in Spain didn't have a religious bone in their bodies.It's just a great walk.
There is no reason this cannot be replicated in Israel & Palestinian Territories.

Maoz Inon an Israeli friend runs the fantastic Fauzi Azar Inn,Old City Nazareth - an all Arab Town.He has Jewish,Christian & Muslim volunteers helping him.Maoz takes visitors on a JESUS TRAIL around the Sea of Galilee.He like me believes not in Peace THEN tourism but Peace THROUGH Tourism.

Why not a JESUS WAY on the route I mentioned?It benefits everyone & harms no one.The Pilgrim dollars would be a trickle at first but could become a flood.There are now cheap flights from UK to Tel Aviv.A couple of hours bus ride and you're at the Sea of Galilee.It's around 200km from there to Jerusalem.Ten days walk at a fairly leisurly pace.

I for one will try my best to 'visit with' people of all backgrounds on the JESUS WAY in 2009.

Cheers,
Paul

El Patio - best Pension in Santiago

2008-09-04T10:09:00.000-07:00

any Pilgrim looking for a place to stay in Santiago de Compostela need look no further than 5 minutes walk from the Cathedral at Patio de Madres,16-17.tel 981 592 712.The place has character rather than an anti-septic feel.It's real Espana,not tourist Spain.

If you like food you will enjoy the meals that comes out of Luz's cocina.I would never have dreamed of ordering cod at a restaurant at home.Having had 3 of Luz's meals by then it wasn't a risk.Absolutly fabulous - the humble cod!

When looking for presents & great service in Santiago the shop to visit is Iberico Bazar,Rua Nova,48.

We Who Are About To Celebrate Salute You!

2008-08-28T12:39:00.000-07:00

An hour to sunset at the end of the world. We met some ladsabout to go & face the heat of 1000km on the 'silver road'.

I'm with three 20 something lads and a prodigous amount of wine has been purchased and carried the last 4km, to be mixed with coca cola! I've kept pace with these lads for a long time now, but at sunset I retire gracefully. All morning thunder, lightening and rain, then HEAT in the afternoon.

There is a kind of special fire lit where socks are being burnt. My shoes go in at sunset!

Prayers to be re-focussed from joints to 'head' - oh, and no rain please.

Buen Camino from the 'end of the world' - at sunset, 910km. Thanksfor your support.

Paul x

Updated on behalf of Paul by Fiona.

And as someone used to say..... 'now this is me' (Fiona). It's been a real pleasure updating this for Paul and Karen. I am a very proud little sister. xx

Santiago de Compostela

2008-08-25T07:45:00.000-07:00

Our 50 km 'completo'day ended after 14 hours with a collapse onto a bed in a massive Albergue at Monte do Gozo just 4km outside Santiago.
We walked into Town around 9am,Sat 23rd decided we would forgo walking onto the Square by the Cathedral until we got accommodation.The signs were not good but we did get an hotel of 'character' down a back street only 5 mins from Cathedral.Turns out to have a bar and v good restaurant.
After dumping bags had coffee then we went to Pilgrim Mass at Noon.
Got my Compostela/certificate shortly afterwards.Basically,now had couple of days recuperating and meeting people from the various Camino's.
Conor my latest walking partner managed a 16 hour bender.As we had only one set of keys I couldn't sleep until he staggered back to the hotel - so me giving up after 'only' 11 hours (plenty of coffee's-lightweight really)was not that good an idea.
Tomorrow go out West towards 'the end of the world'.My guide book says 75km but locals & people who've walked it say 95km.That's thick end of 5 miles extra per day.I'm told it's beautiful so I'm looking forward to it.
As much as I needed rest & have enjoyed Santiago a day not walking feels like a day wasted...
My nearest & dearest will be glad to know I'm now 'sleeker'-tragically only by about 2 ounces.

Completo

2008-08-22T14:22:00.000-07:00

First day on 'French Way' parts of it were like a motorway. I noticed lots of locals with 'day bags'. Apparently they can get 'Compostela' certificate for walking 62.5 miles. All albergues, hostals 'completo' in all towns. The words 'crops' and 'locusts' spring to mind. Its 19.20 hr and we've done over 40k. Stopped for coffee. Looking down the barrels of 50k before hope of bed? We've done it all on chocolate biscuits and kit kats. There's dozens on the roads. We could be under the stars. If we get anywhere I will be too knackered to wash clothes. Tomorrow will be 'eau de Pablo el camino'. Wer of agen??

Updated by Fiona on behalf of Paul.

Out of the Mountains

2008-08-21T09:59:00.000-07:00

Shortly after the start of our Camino I lamented choosing the Norte Way.Well I was wrong.Altho the hills were grim at the beginning & there was too much 'asphalt'there was much to enjoy in the countryside.The real reward was the Camino Primitivo.Beautiful scenery.
Left my Philosopher friend Niq yesterday.Too bad he missed 'the spaghetti Bolognese made by the Englishman'- Pierre the Italian's words.His verdict?He had one helping,Connor & I 3 each...
Had the last Alto -about 2,000'today.Left San Romana Retorta just behind Pierre then Connor kept seeing them on & off all day.You must go at your own pace.
Found Connor reading on his sleeping matt a couple of k's before Melide.Walked in together & got a taste of 'the horror that is the French way'.The hordes of Pilgrims- there was a queue for the Albergue so we gave it a miss and booked into a Pension.Shower & siesta and into Town...

Thank Yous

2008-08-17T01:56:00.000-07:00

Thanks to all who have prayed for us. It's not often we hear good news stories about insurance companies. Karen, aka 'pegleg', would like to thank Phillip Williams and Co who got her home pronto by plane and taxi after she damaged her knee. I would like to thank Kaz for her 'valiente' support and Fi for blog updates. Thanks for morale boosting texts to Fi, Matthew, Red Dave, Sophia, Maureen, Helen and Christine. Thanks for IT 'sponsorship in kind' Tony/Major Systems Ltd and Tim, John for Rucksac and sleeping bag, Hazel for 'hotel services', Howard for taxiing, Frank and Ros for being 'Pilgrims for a day', 'Amawalker' for advice and encouragement. Last but not least the Angels who have just appeared when needed.

Updated by Fiona for Paul.

Wild Horses

2008-08-15T13:36:00.000-07:00

Walked from Pola de Allende to la mesa up mountains through what seems like apline meadows. 'Much bueno'. Long descents, so much pressure off knees on to poles that my arms ached (usual) then pain went up over shoulder and down my back. I am looking at a herd of wild horses in heather and in the foreground, cows with bells on. Alberg is mouldy and smelly.
Tomorrow first thing, I will ascend some more, then I have a half mile plunge in only 4 miles distance. This is followed immediately by 2000' climb! This is the crunch day for the knees. Much bueno prayers please.

Updated by Fiona for Paul.

Best food in Spain

2008-08-14T09:49:00.000-07:00

Got a txt from Karen last night(13th)- she is safely home.A load off my mind.

Walked from Tineo to Polla de Allende today-about 17 miles.Mostly thru beautiful countryside.
Niq (the Phiolsopher)had to hitch a lift as his heel is playing up.The Albergues are usually full & he found an hotel -Nueva Allendesa.I didn´t actually want to eat a five course meal.I have been given advice on the Camino 'eat for the hunger that will come'.Also the hotelier informed me today is the Vigil of the Assumption so tomorrow is a Fiesta.Bringing all my 'cultural awareness'to bear & being 'culturally sensitive'I made the supreme sacrifice & ate all 5 courses - only as a nod to the Festivities u understand.Unfortunately,I did not do justice the the glass container(about half a bucket in size)of red wine - but I tried.
First course was small pieces of toast & a v light pate followed,allegedly by a soup.It had lashings of gravy,cabbage,spicy black pudding,chorizo & a lump of pork.When I had demolished the meat Le Patron whisked it away to be replaced by a round object containing mixed vegetables bound together with a kind of omlette.
Wanting to give in but remembering all my 'diversity training'I heroically tackled course 4-sort of mashed calf meat(ahh)again in a kind of ball of veg in a sauce.I had made slight inroads to the wine but gave up when dessert arrived.3 kinds of cream with 3 types of sweet cakey tart items.
Le Patron was all the while talking to me in French (yes I am a linguist now).Eventually,I said "Senor Chef -Bravo".This seemed to cause no end of pleasure to my host.I slithered upstairs like one of those pythons you see on wild life programmes that has just eaten a whole deer & slept... The Church Bells eventually woke me.
Feet don´t look pretty but are in good order.Joints not brilliant but nursing them.Finished with a v long v steep descent into Pola - I took about a 'fortnight' to make sure I didn't do any damage to joints.We've got some beauties to come.
Keep the prayers up please!

A Glowing Pilgrim!

2008-08-11T05:52:00.000-07:00

The late opening of 'camara santa' where the Lord's face cloth is kept means that I am over 5 hours behind the other pilgrims. I also took Kaz to the hospital for her knee and bought food and a fleece. It's now 13:00 and I've 11 miles to go and an 800' mountain in 7k! The route is a bit complicated and I'm alone and my right calf is beginning to cramp. Squitters beginning too! I stopped to apply some 'deep heat' type gel for my calf then went to loo before washing it off my hands. Big MISTAKE! I now glow on my calf and another place!

Where I'm headed they had 70 sleeping outside two nights ago. I'm hoping the 'english rain' will put off the crowds as I'll easily be the last to arrive there.

On the upside my feet are good and spirits high except for loss of valiente 'pegleg'. More prayers please to find the route and a DRY bed.
Updated by Fiona for Paul and Karen.

The 'Primitive Way'

2008-08-09T11:26:00.000-07:00

Out with Nic,Hugh & Havier & a French guy for beers last night.Good meal across from hotel.Decent nights sleep.had a good breakfast at our hotel this Saturday morning (9th).Nic & I set off shortly after 8am.Karen waving us off from the hotel balcony.
The weather was the best I have had on the Camino.Completely blue sky.Altho it got warmer as the day wore on it only got to the top end of comfortable.feet in (relatively) good order.First half of day a climb of 1,300'.Was reasonably gentle - great views.Hugh rang us from further down the Way (travelled by bus-injured)big problem with accommodation...
Eventually got to Pola de Siero -about 18/19 ml from 'Vicious Town'.Had abit of a struggle with rooms.A french couple put us onto a 3 star hotel (80euros).
Been to Mass in a beautiful Church -fairly full.At 50 yrs I was in bottom 10% in age -worse than home!
About to go for dinner in hotel.
Oviedo Sunday - only 15km.
Thanks for updates Fi.
John W if u read this ur bag back 31st Aug.
Nicole:"Hi Granny-I'm a toyboy too!"
Paul

'Pilgrim of Old'

2008-08-09T03:05:00.000-07:00

I could not sleep well in Poo so I left in the night. It was eerie walking through the woods alone. As I got to the beach the rain was coming from the Atlantic. At first light of 7th low cloud was simmering off the mountains. I really did feel like a 'pilgrim of old'. It was a very hard 20 mile day.

Much better 24 mile day on the 8th with Nic the Belgium philosopher (an aetheist who agrees Da Vinci Code rubbish on all levels). I managed to put in the extra miles to get to Kaz's hotel. Thanks to Hugh from Bournmouth for help and friendly staff at El Manquin, Villaviciosa.

Today (9th) I begin to enter the mountains of the 'primitive way'. I'm told its the hardest of all the Caminos (ways). So the coming week is the crunch. Sunday I aim to be at 'Camara Santa' in Oviedo Cathedral.

The doctor has diagnosed 3 days rest for Kaz. The knee is slowly improving.

Updated by Fiona for Paul and Kaz.

Not Stilletto´s.

2008-08-06T06:36:00.000-07:00

15:35 hrs 6th Aug.waiting to get into Poo Albergue (on veranda at back).
Had 2 days with Frank & Roz.Taken turns to Walk & be Pelleginos.They brought my boots from England.Against my better judgement I tried them.My 'fell runner' shoes have a half inch heel.the boots a 2" heel.I had 4 hours of purgatory -absolutely crippled.I totterd along paths.they might have well as been 6" stilleto's.I had left my shoes in F&R's van as their 'next to skin technology'renders them soooo pungent.(if I could focus the pungency I'd make millions patenting it as a diamond cutter).
FR had a Pellegrinos Paella at last Albergue I saw the two rabbits heads go into it.
Next morning 5th I had my 4th blisters operation.worked great not withstanding my 'stilletos'.Good to get rid of squelch & searing pain of blisters(but preferable to stilletos).
K walked about 6 of 8 miles we have done today.v slow.she has decided for the moment she will be Pellegrinos de autobus.I need to clw back some of the lost miles.I'm pencilled in for a couple of 20 mile days.It's the 'asphalt' that causes blisters & has a battering affect on joints.Prayers please!speaking of which during my 'pugatory in boots' yesterday I got a bit lost.another angel appeared from nowhere & directed me.

Ampolla (blisters)

2008-08-04T02:21:00.000-07:00

At last I can update the blog directly.Thanks for the help so far Fiona & Terry.(don't go away way we may not see a computer for a while).
11:25 hrs Monday 4th August we are guests of Sofía & Luis José at the Auberge in the basement of 'Escuela Maritimea Pesquera' on the hill top of San Vincente de la Barquera.Sofia seems to have a vocation to Pellegrinos Ampolla - to cure them.
The last entry should have read 'Paul not the Valiente'.
I have a day of enforced rest -Sofia's instructions.I have exacerbated the blisters by getting sand inside them!Also by using compeed which is akin to a swear word to Sofia.
LJ & S speak Spanish & French -my 20 words of French have been flogged to death this trip!LJ seems to have fun with the stupid mono glot English -everyone laughed when I heard the word Inglis.
Not only do they provide a hearty 3 course Pellegrinos evening meal & breakfast they have gone 'the extra mile' (kilomtetre?) to allow us to stay the whole day on premises - most places kick out by 0800.LJ provided me with a comfy deckchair in the sun a cushion on a rock to put my feet up (per S's orders)& a pile of English language books.
It is clear they are wonderful people.
(2 Dutch pilgrims just arrived 11:30 hrs -having set off at 05:30.They have walked from Holland!)
It would be great to do somthing similar in the Holy Land on a Jesus Way from Galilee to Jerusalem...
We would like to record our thanks to Dr Vincente Garcia Ruix for giving 'pegleg' (K's nomme de guerre)a lift from Santander to Santillana del Mar.
It has been a great journey so far met all sorts of people.Some more arrived 11:55 hrs Max & Sophie.
Later I will try upload our photos but don't hold your breath.

Paul the Valiente

2008-08-04T01:09:00.000-07:00

We were in San Vincente last night, Sunday 3rd August. Karen is on the mend but I had to have my blisters seen to which attracted a little crowd in the hostel.
'Paul be valiente' was the cry. I thought I was being valiente until the iodine was injected into 'live' skin. I nearly hit the roof, while valiente went right out the window. I'd like to be able to say that, hours later, my feet were just tingling, but they were burning! I have an appointment after breakfast for them to be bandaged up for today's 20 miles.

Joints doing okay - prayers to be aimed at blisters please.

Scenery has been great throughout, the churches are beautiful and we have met some great people.

'Paul (not) the Valiente'.

Updated on behalf of Paul and Karen by Fiona.

Off to Hospital

2008-07-30T13:16:00.000-07:00

Thanks to 'amawalker'. All options are open at the moment.

All the prayers have produced 'guardian angels' absolutely out of the blue when we were really down. First, the English lad,'Fish' in Toulouse, then a lady stopping the bus for us, getting us to hospital today, insisted on paying even though I had 80euros in my hand.
Kaz named ger rucksac 'illegitimi bag'! The 1,300' Alto de Vivero proved Kaz's undoing. Her knee ligament has gone. In a nutshell. she's battled but the doctor gave her an injection and said 'no walking'. My joints are very dodgy too.

Had a very restful day in Castro-urdiales.

Keep prayers up. We very much need them. Will bus/walk (Kaz/Paul) to Laredo on 31st.

Updated on behalf of Karen and paul by Paul's sister, Fiona.

The 'flat' Coastal Route!

2008-07-27T02:47:00.000-07:00

The 24th July was a short day from Getaria, only 10 miles but then hills to Deba.
This was the first day the pack 'felt' heavy when I put it on.

On 25th we had to do our first long day, 19 miles. Maybe we are not fit but the hills are just desperate. We have been told the coastal route is far more hilly than the 'French Way' - my strategic error! After 10 hours on the road we stayed at Centaruzza Monastery - great views and the pilgrm soup given by the monks was very good.

On the 26th we set a 20 mile target. It was the easiest day except we got lost twice and it turned into a 10 hour epic! All the prayers must be working as when we were totally knackered, a car stopped and the driver told us, in perfect English, that we were only 1km away from the hostel in Morga. Cue choirs of angels! Somehow we resisted a lift!

Updated on behalf of Karen and Paul by Paul's sister, Fiona.

On Spanish soil

2008-07-23T09:25:00.000-07:00

Well, we've made it to Spain, and two days into the walking, we're absolutely knackered!
Karen and I flew out on Saturday and made our way to Lourdes - a suitable starting point for our pilgrimage - by hitch-hiking and train. We got a lift with a young ex-pat Englishman from Carcassonne to Toulouse train station.
Time just for a brief prayer in Lourdes, then onwards by train to Irun, the last town in France before crossing the border. We tried to find a church so we could get a priest to stamp our pilgrim passports, but in the end settled for the local police station, where we collected the first stamp of hopefully many!
So on Monday, we took our first steps into Spain. We were led to a pilgrim hostel by a very helpful bloke on a bicycle, who spoke no English. No matter - with his daughter translating on the other end of the phone, he got us to the hostel and a free night's bed and board.
The next morning the walking started in earnest. Where on earth I got the idea that the coast route would be less hillly I don't know - the hills are immense! At least there is a bit of a breeze on the coast, and the scenery is absolutely beautiful.
I'm not sure how much my knees and ankles can take, though. We've got the poles out whenever the hills have got steep - the last thing we need is for one of us to do a knee!
We managed 13 or 14 miles on Tuesday - not bad in temperatures of 31 degrees - having left the hostel at 7am and got in a good 8 hours walking.
Whoever wrote the guidebook really must have been a mountain goat, because there was no mention of the two massive hills we had to overcome!
Today, Wednesday, we've managed another 16 miles through some incredible hills, from San Sebastien to Getaria. But after two nights in pilgrim hostels (last night's was a school commandeered for the Summer - the snoring was unbelievable!) we're in a demi-pension tonight. We felt we needed a good night's sleep to rest some aching joints.
So 30 miles down, some 470-odd to go! We're off for some rest and 'refreshments', but I'll keep you posted on our progress through this page - on that, internet cafes have been fairly non-existent so far, so I'm writing this with the help of the mobile and my very own ghost-writer!
Say a prayer for us!
Paul

2008-07-14T06:23:00.000-07:00

pre walk checking maps

2008-07-14T06:18:00.001-07:00

Countdown

2008-07-09T08:50:00.000-07:00

10 days until Karen & I set off on our 'Way'.Maps have been checked (& cut down to size to save weight).Tonight we make plans in a local hostelry with friends who intend to join us for part of the Way.So an even more thorough check of the maps to make sure we actually meet.
Weather not been good to do enough practise walks...excuses...
I have to try out my old rucksack out as I'm not convinced by the new one - must do a longish walk.
Got a surprise gift in the post from Fi (sister).2 lightweight knife/fork/spoon combos - only 9grams each.v thoughtful - thanks.
there should be a photo of me poring over maps to go with this my first ever blog entry.But have not been unable to upload it from camera (thanks for trying to help -Red Dave & Terry.)
Spent ages on phone with Terry from ACN (the excellent charity who channel the sponsor money where it's needed).Already planning another Goodwill Walk but to an even 'more interesting' place.Trying to engage with some 'high profile' people to make the sponsorship side grow from family,friends & parishioners -won't say who yet.
That's it for now.Cheers,Paul

Counting down the days

2008-07-08T10:26:00.001-07:00

Right now we're less than two weeks from departure. I'll be letting you know how all the plans are going in the next day or two - once we've mastered all these technical gadgets!

Please sponsor us!

2008-07-08T09:57:00.000-07:00